Surfing

Being in the water is one of my happy places. I absolutely love being out and catching a wave. But I've the utmost respect for the ocean as well... I remember one of the biggest lessons I've learned life was on a big surfing day. We went to a place I've not surfed before, we where amped but I did not have my correct board size with me for these massive waves. Still we paddled out and its about a 400m paddle to the back line beautiful rolling waves coming out of the deep sea and you just behold them from the distance. As you get closer and you sink in between the two swells with it getting eerily quiet around you and it feels like the sun fades behind these dunes every time you go from the to to the bottom. Then cam a great set sitting perfectly I took this 4story(12m) wave and as I looked back I was like yeaaaaaaaaaaaaa this is amazing pumping my fist and rushing down the line as this wave thunders behind me with a loud sound like I've never heard before from the ocean.I pop out of this wave and started Paddling back to the line up. There is realized that man this power of these wave they are something I have not seen before. I sat to take another wave and up I was coming down fast and boom lost my balance and off I want skidding on the wave till it dunked me from above right down dragging me 300m under water and pushing me trough bamboo I remember that as lying in the water not wanting to fight till it spits me out but my breath became nothing and this wave kept pushing and I thought today is the day that I'm going to die, I remember praying under at that brief moment and told the Lord I will never again do something like this if I'm not prepared for it and I'm sorry for taking my own life into my own hands but then I popped out and I grasped for a breath and swallowed foam and water and crashing come wave after wave as I struggled through to get to open water away from the impact zone as I broke trough exhausted I paddled hard to the entry point and just sat there and thought this was close but today I learned that you can do anything you just have to prepare well and listen to Jesus. Never be afraid of things always go for them but be wise in your doing.


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